New research emphasises the worrying gap in skincare research equity

Conversation has been rife for some time about the worrying lack of skincare research that includes darker skin tones, especially Fitzpatrick IV, V and VI. Now, a new meta-analysis of research emphasises the true extent of the gap in skincare research equity.

This should be of concern to any aesthetic doctor who sells skincare in their clinic, considering it suggests that the needs of individuals with darker skin tones may not be fully met. That, in turn, could be limiting their aesthetic results.

The skincare brand 4.5.6 Skin is attempting to help rectify the issue, by shining a light on why skincare research equity is important and what needs to be done to achieve it. 

People with darker skin tones represent 40% of the world population and require products that specifically target their skin needs. 

Below are the company’s findings after a comprehensive review of skincare research. 

1. Medical training about skin conditions in darker skin is limited

As many as 60% of dermatologists struggle to diagnose and treat patients with darker skin tones. This is exacerbated by medical textbooks failing to reflect diversity; only 4.5% of images in such texts are diverse. This means doctors are not currently being effectively educated about how skin conditions may exhibit differently on darker skin. 

2. The skincare industry currently targets lighter skin tones

The vast priority of the skincare industry (70%) focuses on the main skin concern of lighter phototypes I, II and III, namely anti-ageing. However, that is not necessarily the focus for women of colour. In fact, 90% of the women of colour asked by 4.5.6 Skin said their top priorities were even skin tone and a healthy glow. 

3. Current testing procedures could be causing harm

Regulatory testing is integral for ensuring that the skincare products on the market are safe, however, the one used by the industry has not evolved and is based on Fitzpatrick skin tones I, II and III only. This means that crucial patch tests are all based on white skin, despite irritation and inflammation appearing differently in darker skin.

4. Clinical trials are not inclusive

For various reasons, clinical trials traditionally tend to include people with lighter skin tones, meaning less than 1% of clinical trials are truly inclusive. This concerning statistic is despite the FDA and EU acknowledging that drug trials for topical medications should include a spectrum of skin tones.

5. Improved diversity in the industry is powered by marketing

Over the past few years, the conversation about diversity has improved, which may give the impression that inclusivity has increased. However, research suggests that this perceived increase has been heavily led by skincare marketing, for example, advertising campaigns, rather than specific products and research.  

6. Women of colour are especially confused about what skincare to use

In a survey of individuals interested in 4.5.6 Skin, 60% of women of colour reported that they did not confidently understand how to care for their skin. This emphasises a lack of consumer-facing education – which researchers (and aesthetic doctors) should be trying to combat to improve patient satisfaction and results. 

7. Differences between skin tones extend beyond colour 

When discussing the different skin tones, most conversations focus completely on colour, but research has shown numerous structural and functional differences in darker skin tones that go beyond that. That’s why 4.5.6 Skin is advocating for a philosophy and formulation approach that factors in genetics, metabolic, pathological and psychological implications of skin tone.