Treating clients of colour
In many respects, regardless of colour, skin is just skin and clients are simply after the best treatments and practitioners to help them enhance and preserve their skin health. But, living in a multicultural society means we have to tailor our approach to take into account the diversity of clients that walk through our doors.
The skincare concerns of a black client can be different from those of a white client, and there is an advantage in taking the time to understand the needs and expectations of clients of colour. In doing so, not only are you able to treat the patient effectively, but you’re far more likely to retain their loyalty.
1. Whether you completed your studies years ago or more recently, did you cover any specific training for skin of colour? 2019 is set to be a big year for training in this area, so updating your knowledge is now easier than ever. Training providers such as Sally Durant Aesthetic Education & Training, Harley Academy and Dalvi Humzah Aesthetic Training all address different skin tones in depth within their modules.
2. I often hear complaints that practitioners either bluff their way through a treatment or refuse to treat a condition, leaving the client with no further options of where to go next. Avoid this by developing a wide network of fellow professionals who you can call on when you encounter a challenging condition you’re not equipped to treat. This enables you to refer a client to an appropriately qualified practitioner, rather than risk creating further damage or distress.
3. Your choice of clinic brand can influence your success in treating darker-skinned patients. Select those that provide extensive clinical data on Fitzpatrick I–VI. Professional brands, including NeoStrata, AlumierMD, ZO Skin Health and Skinbetter Science, undertake clinical trials on all skin tones and provide detailed results to practitioners.
4. Carry out your own case studies that show your ability to treat darker skin. This is especially handy when you’re treating long-term skin complaints such as hyperpigmentation or melasma. Brands don’t always provide case study information, but by taking the initiative you can put yourself ahead of the game.
5. A picture tells a thousand words, so use models of all skin tones in your marketing. Our data tells us that when a person of colour sees a representation of themselves in advertising, engagement is increased. In a survey by Black Skin Directory, more than 80% of respondents said they used social media and the internet to seek out clinics and aesthetic professionals. If you use social media, have you ever checked to make sure your images show the diverse range of skin tones you can treat? If you have the budget, engage social media influencers of colour who can act as ambassadors of your expertise to a much larger BEM (black and ethnic minority) audience.
6. Don’t be shy or reserved when talking about skin colour or ethnicity. It is right and respectful to describe people according to their appropriate ethnic origin. If in doubt, confirm with the patient. It’s fine to use the terms “fairer skin” or “darker skin” when discussing a spectrum of skin tones. Use a celebrity for comparison if it helps; for example, Beyoncé as fairer skinned and Oprah Winfrey as darker skinned.
7. Misinformation has meant that black women tend to stick to heritage products due to a misunderstanding of cosmeceuticals, so having an understanding of cultural products; for example, DuduOsun black soap and shea butter, is important so that you can educate your client about professional alternatives that will be better for their skin. Additionally, people of colour who engage in skin bleaching rarely admit it. Rather, they may say they are “toning” or “brightening” their skin. It’s crucial to be sensitive to these cultural norms to better serve the demographic.
8. Start a blog on your website where you can show your expertise and knowledge on darker skin tones and display your case studies. When writing, expand the information to target a multicultural audience. For example, when describing inflammation, distinguish that on black skin there may not be any redness – it may be that skin takes on a more purplish hue.
9. Be prepared to answer the question, “when was the last time you performed this procedure on someone with my skin tone?” To this end, it’s helpful to keep track of ethnicity data so you can answer accurately. It’s also a good idea to have a bi-annual audit of clients, popular treatments and outcomes so that you can have more informed discussions with clients of colour.
10. Request higher standards from the industry and be a leader among your peers. It’s crucial to be a source of change and constantly look for ways in which the industry can improve its service offering to people of colour. Be vocal about what needs improving and join change-advocate platforms such as Black Skin Directory.
Dija Ayodele is a London-based aesthetic therapist and beauty writer. She has a special interest and experience in skincare for women of colour and is the founder of Black Skin Directory, an online resource connecting women of colour to expert skincare professionals in the UK.
In many respects, regardless of colour, skin is just skin and clients are simply after the best treatments and practitioners to help them enhance and preserve their skin health. But, living in a multicultural society means we have to tailor our approach to take into account the diversity of clients that walk through our doors.
The skincare concerns of a black client can be different from those of a white client, and there is an advantage in taking the time to understand the needs and expectations of clients of colour. In doing so, not only are you able to treat the patient effectively, but you’re far more likely to retain their loyalty.
1. Whether you completed your studies years ago or more recently, did you cover any specific training for skin of colour? 2019 is set to be a big year for training in this area, so updating your knowledge is now easier than ever. Training providers such as Sally Durant Aesthetic Education & Training, Harley Academy and Dalvi Humzah Aesthetic Training all address different skin tones in depth within their modules.
2. I often hear complaints that practitioners either bluff their way through a treatment or refuse to treat a condition, leaving the client with no further options of where to go next. Avoid this by developing a wide network of fellow professionals who you can call on when you encounter a challenging condition you’re not equipped to treat. This enables you to refer a client to an appropriately qualified practitioner, rather than risk creating further damage or distress.
3. Your choice of clinic brand can influence your success in treating darker-skinned patients. Select those that provide extensive clinical data on Fitzpatrick I–VI. Professional brands, including NeoStrata, AlumierMD, ZO Skin Health and Skinbetter Science, undertake clinical trials on all skin tones and provide detailed results to practitioners.
4. Carry out your own case studies that show your ability to treat darker skin. This is especially handy when you’re treating long-term skin complaints such as hyperpigmentation or melasma. Brands don’t always provide case study information, but by taking the initiative you can put yourself ahead of the game.
5. A picture tells a thousand words, so use models of all skin tones in your marketing. Our data tells us that when a person of colour sees a representation of themselves in advertising, engagement is increased. In a survey by Black Skin Directory, more than 80% of respondents said they used social media and the internet to seek out clinics and aesthetic professionals. If you use social media, have you ever checked to make sure your images show the diverse range of skin tones you can treat? If you have the budget, engage social media influencers of colour who can act as ambassadors of your expertise to a much larger BEM (black and ethnic minority) audience.
6. Don’t be shy or reserved when talking about skin colour or ethnicity. It is right and respectful to describe people according to their appropriate ethnic origin. If in doubt, confirm with the patient. It’s fine to use the terms “fairer skin” or “darker skin” when discussing a spectrum of skin tones. Use a celebrity for comparison if it helps; for example, Beyoncé as fairer skinned and Oprah Winfrey as darker skinned.
7. Misinformation has meant that black women tend to stick to heritage products due to a misunderstanding of cosmeceuticals, so having an understanding of cultural products; for example, DuduOsun black soap and shea butter, is important so that you can educate your client about professional alternatives that will be better for their skin. Additionally, people of colour who engage in skin bleaching rarely admit it. Rather, they may say they are “toning” or “brightening” their skin. It’s crucial to be sensitive to these cultural norms to better serve the demographic.
8. Start a blog on your website where you can show your expertise and knowledge on darker skin tones and display your case studies. When writing, expand the information to target a multicultural audience. For example, when describing inflammation, distinguish that on black skin there may not be any redness – it may be that skin takes on a more purplish hue.
9. Be prepared to answer the question, “when was the last time you performed this procedure on someone with my skin tone?” To this end, it’s helpful to keep track of ethnicity data so you can answer accurately. It’s also a good idea to have a bi-annual audit of clients, popular treatments and outcomes so that you can have more informed discussions with clients of colour.
10. Request higher standards from the industry and be a leader among your peers. It’s crucial to be a source of change and constantly look for ways in which the industry can improve its service offering to people of colour. Be vocal about what needs improving and join change-advocate platforms such as Black Skin Directory.
Dija Ayodele is a London-based aesthetic therapist and beauty writer. She has a special interest and experience in skincare for women of colour and is the founder of Black Skin Directory, an online resource connecting women of colour to expert skincare professionals in the UK.