Will anti-ageing fall out of fashion?

Skincare professional and doctor at Thérapie clinic, Dr Farah Kanji

• Do you envisage anti-ageing products, procedures and treatments ever truly falling out of fashion? If so, what might replace them?

Due to there being such a high demand for anti-ageing products at the moment, the possibility of them going out of fashion is hard to imagine happening any time soon. Working in the industry and being surrounded by anti-ageing treatments such as anti-wrinkle injections, dermal fillers and Profhilo to name a few, I always suggest using products that have active ingredients within to boost the skin's natural collagen production and prolong the results of the treatments performed, eight out of 10 clients opt for skincare with anti-ageing properties within them, because as long as they are preventing the inevitable happening suddenly, they are happy. As the industry continues to introduce new devices, treatments and products, the interest in aesthetics and anti-ageing ingredients is more popular than ever before. With the aesthetic and cosmetic industry reaching more than 3.5 million in 2022, the awareness of looking after oneself is the highest on record.

• Is there a younger clientele coming in for anti-ageing procedures?

Yes, due to their being a large focus on ‘preventative’ treatments, the younger clientele is seeking injectable treatments, such as anti-wrinkle injections and lip fillers. Our collagen production does begin to deplete at 21 years old, so looking into treatments from the age of 25 onwards isn’t unheard of. Social media plays a big part in this also; the use of Instagram and TikTok has shone a bright light of awareness on aesthetics and the beauty industry and looking after your skin and preventing ‘signs of ageing’ is something that has gained popularity. It is important to understand that if the client comes into the clinic and is seeking a look that is not going to benefit them or a product that they have seen an influencer use but won’t work for their skin type, it is important to work with them on this and guide them in the right direction.

• Have you noticed a shift towards people opting towards other procedures and treatments that are more about looking your best rather than specifically anti-ageing? Or not at all?

There has been a shift in treatments for a subtle boost rather than an intense anti-ageing treatment, for example, Thérapie clinic offers the Skin theory peels, which all work by achieving different effects on the skin without the need for injectables; for example- the Glycolic peel, A deep resurfacing treatment that uses Glycolic acid to deeply exfoliate the skin. Leaving the skin smoother, firmer, and revitalised. Reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, scarring and uneven complexation.
The main ‘trend’ as you could put it, is to keep on top of your skin with treatments and products, rather than coming back once a year for a full face of treatments.

Nurse prescriber, skincare expert and founder of the Natali Kelly Clinic, Natali Kelly

• Would you say anti-ageing products are on the decline? Or would you say there is a stable or growing demand?

There is a stable demand for anti-ageing products and treatments and the industry is constantly evolving. We have an ageing population and during Covid-19, skincare products saw a huge rise in demand. People are proactive nowadays to look after their skin at home and in preventing ageing amongst other skin concerns.
You can also support the skin’s ageing structure by boosting collagen and elastin production using some technologically-advanced energy delivery treatments, such as radiofrequency and HIFU. A course of these will cheat time and skin deterioration. With maintenance, these treatments can slow the ageing process in its tracks and encourage all the skin’s natural processes that it needs to rejuvenate itself.
It’s a sad fact that the speed at which collagen is produced rapidly declines from your mid-20s and, with it, that youthful plumpness. Collagen provides bounce and firmness to the skin and, when it depletes, you lose facial volume, so you may notice a slight sagging or droop to the skin, also known as skin laxity.

• Would you describe the use of products in the aesthetic industry as vital?

I educate and empower my clients to be proactive in taking care of themselves. In my opinion, today’s client is much more educated about ingredients, and it is becoming normal for them to seek professional strength products and treatments.

• Julia Fox recently said ageing is back ‘in’. Do you think this truly reflects how people currently feel about ageing and beauty?

Our relationship with ageing and beauty is so personal and every individual who comes to my clinic is different, I believe that health and well-being should be balanced to achieve optimal beauty. I realise that the way we look greatly affects our self-confidence and body image perception. Feeling dissatisfied with our features, body, or skin can lead to depression, insecurity and withdrawal from certain situations and relationships. Often, aesthetic treatments can have a great impact on our psychological well-being and body confidence. I think tweakments are in, as is not ageing.

• Have you noticed a shift towards people opting towards other procedures and treatments that are more about looking your best rather than specifically anti-ageing? Or not at all?

Peels, anti-wrinkle injections and dermal fillers are great medium-term solutions to wrinkles and lost volume. There are even some effective collagen-boosting injectables that boost your skin’s natural production of collagen. Some other popular treatments that help boost the skin’s glow and help improve skin health and confidence are:

1. Injectable Concealer- a non-surgical treatment using minimal doses of hyaluronic acid dermal filler to rejuvenate the eye for fresh natural results. An advanced multi-layered injectable technique using a light-reflecting skin booster which helps to brighten dark circles, so you can wake up feeling refreshed without wearing concealer.
2. Profhilo- An injectable skin-remodelling treatment for skin that is lacking in elasticity and firmness. It can be used on the face, neck, and décolletage to deliver anti-ageing, skin rejuvenating and lifting results. A revolutionary beneath-the-skin moisturising treatment using hyaluronic acid made with patented technology.
3. Lip Revitalize- Involves micro-injections to the lips to hydrate, revitalise and if desired, add plumpness and volume. The hyaluronic acid gel works to reduce the signs of ageing, as well as enhance the lip’s contours and redefine shape. We specialise in natural volume enhancements to add fullness to thinner lips, adjust the proportions of asymmetry, and help upturn drooping corners of the mouth for a more youthful look.

Skincare specialist and aesthetic professional, Dr Dean Rhobayne

• Would you say in your profession that referring to anti-ageing as the ‘in’ thing is correct?

The term anti-ageing has been something that has been around in the field of aesthetics for years, so referring to it as ‘in’ may not be the best way to put this to readers when discussing the topic. Treatments and product ranges have and will continue to improve and grow each year, and with the aesthetic industry being such a dominant success year after year, anti-ageing in this industry is always going to be the ‘in’ thing.

• Do you envisage anti-ageing products, procedures and treatments ever truly falling out of fashion? If so, what might replace them?

No, striving for aesthetic enhancement has been a human endeavour for millennia, with many examples of beautification treatments and procedures evident even in ancient history. Modern anti-ageing products, procedures and treatments are always evolving quickly; each year there has been something new, whether this is a new technique for optimising facial shape and contours or using energy-based treatments to remove fat, tighten skin or tone muscles. Anti-ageing can refer to many different aspects of aesthetics, so the continued growth will never go out of fashion, but more so continue to shape the aesthetic industry.

• What is your take on the phrase ‘anti-ageing’- Do you believe this is the right to advertise products or treatments

The term prevention is something that is preferred. When you are preventing something for some time, then you are realistically facing up to your concern and doing something about it, with the understanding that you will have to look into doing this again, one, two or five years down the line. You cannot defeat the inevitable which is, we are all going to age, and we cannot stop that, so by using the phrase’ anti-ageing we are selling a lie almost. Consequently, I tend to describe ‘anti-ageing’ in terms of ‘ageing gracefully’. What we are doing, however, is improving someone’s appearance to turn back the clock slightly, such as cheek enhancement to add definition to the face and help reduce the appearance of sagginess where it is not wanted, anti-wrinkle injections to remove the crows’ feet around our eyes and therefore improving the skin's appearance for a ‘youthful’ appearance. We are also reducing the rate of aesthetic ‘decline’ that naturally occurs with time so that patients look the best version of themselves whatever stage of life they are at.

• What is most popular this time of year? And why do you think that is?

The popularity of different treatments varies throughout the year. For example, non-surgical facial enhancement with fillers and anti-wrinkle injections such as botulinum toxin, as well as skin tightening with FaceTite are always popular throughout the year. Laser or IPL/BBL-based treatments start becoming more popular during the colder seasons as there is less sun exposure at this time of year, which is an important consideration for pre- and post-care when undertaking these types of treatments. Fat reduction treatments become, unsurprisingly, more popular post-Christmas and in the run-up to summer as patients want to shed stubborn pockets of fat (such as under the chin) to look their best. Patients often complain of dry skin during the winter periods and need extra support with their skin currently, whether evidence-based skincare products (such as SkinCeuticals) or skin therapy treatments in the clinic such as HydraFacial, Morpheus8 and Forma.